David Lawler

The 2010 Judy Hirst recipient, 2011 Age Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year, Len Evans scholar and Vice President of Sommeliers Australia. Presides over an encyclopaedic wine list, with service skills as impeccable as his wine knowledge.
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The 2010 Judy Hirst recipient, 2011 Age Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year, Len Evans scholar and Vice President of Sommeliers Australia. Presides over an encyclopaedic wine list, with service skills as impeccable as his wine knowledge.

Lawler was lucky enough to get an apprenticeship in waiting when he was 18 at Marchettis Latin, beginning in 1991, it delivered a thorough education in all facets of fine dining over the ensuing five years; he was well and truly hooked.

After The Latin he worked as a waiter at Paul Bocuse, Bortolotto’s and Toofeys (Carlton) steadily gaining more understanding of the importance, and responsibilities for the service of wine in these dining experiences. The years following included tenures at Langtons, Ondine and Vue de monde all providing great platforms for honing the skills of the Sommelier craft.

October 2006 saw the opening of Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne, the opportunity to open and develop a wine culture on this scale continues to be intensely rewarding. In 2010 we opened Spice Temple and The Waiting Room, so now we offer three very individual venues with wine playing a unique, yet important role in each. I also hold the position of Vice President of Sommeliers Australia, a non-profit organisation dedicated to raising the standards of this profession through education, tasting and encouraging an already strong sense of community among or members nationally

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I felt I was on a pathway to Architecture, when I walked in to The Latin…

When did you know you would work in the in the food and wine industry?
Six months in to my apprenticeship I was allowed on to the Restaurant floor, I was spellbound by this glamorous, convivial world of celebration

How would you describe your work to a complete stranger?
I look after the procuring, storage and service of all beverages you might enjoy whilst dining at one of the restaurants

How hard is it to be authentic nowadays?
Definitions of Authentic may be varied in this industry, whilst I think many become easily smitten with the next ‘big thing’ or most eclectic wine styles, I think supporting ‘classics’ continues to provide me with stimulation and reward… short answer = easy

Is there a mission to your work?
To share and enthuse guests with the infectious kaleidoscope that is Food and Wine (beverage). Unclutter the world of wine from unnecessary intimidations

What’s your background – are there studies that prepare you for this?
Basic wine training was a part of the apprenticeship, however the career pathway was largely unformed.
My studies and training have taken place in books, wine glasses and restaurant floors

What’s the first thing career related you usually do each day?
Check emails

Can you describe an “average” working day for you?
Varied, but may include meeting with producers and suppliers, assessing new vintages, tasting with sommeliers in the group, assessing stock levels and productivity of items, making sure all products are served in optimum condition. Meetings with venues managers to discuss menus and service changes

What gets you fired up?
Let’s not forget; it’s just wine. I think the local wine industry can at times be compromised by the importation of inexpensive, largely innocuous wines from far off exotic places. This brings little or no value to the dining/drinking experience. The places they may come from are indeed exotic and exciting, this does not mean drinking them is exotic or even exciting. In the environmentally aware world, I think it is less justifiable to ship this category of wine around the world, for little or no added value that cannot be found by drinking local. Nb there is justification and value to be had in drinking the classic wines of the world without doubt.

Then there are those that peddle this category of wine; this industry has been prone to many ‘hot new things’, often wantonly embraced by too many sommeliers, over confident from, and smitten with, the sound of their own verbiage… on the bright side; this is changing

Who in the industry most inspires you?
This industry has so many individuals and teams that are committed to setting standards, uncompromised, and singular in their vision. The industry as whole is a constant source of inspiration

What in the industry do you despair about?
We have been on the cusp for some years of rebirthing this industry as a solid, rewarding and sustainable career; there will always be a transient element, however I hope that one day soon, restaurateurs, employees and their guests can cement a long term rewarding and sustainable career path for those impassioned by this industry

What is the best thing about your job?
Not only getting to taste great wine most days, but those moments when a staff member or a guest has their ‘moment’, when some fact, taste or sensation about wine falls in to place for them

What’s the worst?
Having to tell a producer that their wine, for whatever reason is not up to the standards of the lists. Kinda like telling someone their child is not so pretty…never goes down well

What are the top three skills you need in this industry?
Humility, willingness to share, willingness to listen

What advice would you give anyone looking to break into the field?
Follow with diligence that which excites you most. The world of wine is constantly changing, and very difficult to digest by rote learning; this increases the risk of boredom. If you are truly fascinated by wine, you will always be stimulated by exploring new vintages, producers and regions

How do you know when you missed the mark?
Listening to and watching guests will always give you honest feedback. Even if they are saying the wine is fine, if you watch and listen you know when they have differing expectations.

Which of the below phrases best suits your career development to date and why?

a. “The road to success is always under construction. ”
b. “Opportunity dances with those who are already on the dance floor.”
c. “Success is best measured by how far you’ve come with the talents you’ve been given. ”
d. “No one can cheat you out of ultimate success but yourself.”

“The road to success is always under construction. ”
This chosen field, particularly of wine, will never cease to evolve; each vintage is a new beginning
Our guests are evolving; with more and more experiences and knowledge there is a definite need for greater knowledge and deeper understanding of the produce we are sharing

When do you know you’ve made it?
Sounds like a sad state, to think you’ve made it. I hope to keep stimulated, evolving, sharing and learning for as long as I can hold a glass of wine to my lips.

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